The Golden Stupa found at the capital, Vientiane, contains the hair and bosom bone of Buddha. Otherwise known as “Pha That Luang” (the Grand Stupa), the Golden Stupa, constructed in 1566 and renovated many times over, is the symbol of the Lao nation as it reflects the country’s devotion to Theravada Buddhism.
On any regular day, the Golden Stupa is a sparkling tourist attraction, but on November 11 to 17, 2013, the whole nation celebrates the cultural importance of this icon with three days of pilgrimage and cultural festivities and a week-long fair after. As this is a public holiday, businesses, schools and government offices are closed on the first three days on the actual dates of Boun That Luang 2013.
“Phasat Pheung” Procession
The “wax castle” procession starts at Wat Si Muang, a temple at the city center of Vientiane, and wounds its way to the Golden Stupa 5 kilometers northeast. Participants usually wear their best ethnic costumes, and dance to traditional music. Upon reaching the Golden Stupa, the monks lead the devout in a “wien thien” ceremony, slowly circling the temple three times in clockwise direction.
Phasat Pheung are miniature castles made of banana trunks decorated with paper money and flowers made of wax.
A similar procession on the second day comes from Vat Nongbone, another monastery with elaborate roof decor less than a kilometer west of the Golden Stupa. This procession, however, lasts into the night under the full moon, as the devout light candles and carry the wax castles around the Golden Stupa three times before putting the wax castles on the skirt of the stupa.
“Taak Baat” Almsgiving
On the morning of the third day of the That Luang Festival, people get busy early as devout usually go to the Golden Stupa even before the sun rises to secure a spot within the cloister of the stupa where they prepare for their offerings and begin to pray. At 7AM, the “taak baat” (give alms) ceremony starts. To facilitate easier almsgiving to the monks, the devout now sit in one place and the monks go around to receive their food and other offerings. When “taak baat” is finished, the lay go inside the stupa to pray, light candles and burn incense.
In the afternoon, a traditional game, “tikhy” or “tikhee,” is played between a team of villagers and a team of government officials. It is Laos’ version of hockey where players use bamboo sticks to direct bamboo balls to their goals. A victory of villagers would mean that the people would be spared from famine, and a good fortune and economy awaits for the year.
On the last day of the festival which coincides with the rising of the full moon, the monks and the devout make another evening procession around the stupa, and the combined effects of thousands of candles and the full moon on the spire of the stupa makes for one compelling photo opportunity.
Trade Fair at Vientiane’s Exposition Center
The occasion of Boun That Luang is also the best time to come visit Vientiane because many local shops and artisans put their products on display. Other festival games, cultural performances and food booths are also showcased during the week after the formal festivities, so a trip that coincides with Boun That Luang is a fitting introduction to Laos.
