“Ukay-ukay”, which both refers to the open-air rummage sale area and the used or second-hand items sold in such a setup, is increasingly the common Filipinos’ shopping mecca alongside Chinese and Korean one-stop-shops that sell knockoff and low-quality items at unbelievably low prices.

Given the soaring prices of ready-to-wear and off-the-shelf items – to say nothing of name-brands whose prices balloon to 40 times the U.S. dollar – and wage rates not keeping up with inflation, one can easily come to the conclusion that between an expensive and brand new clothing or item (or a knockoff) and an original piece that is several times cheaper and lasts way longer, the money-sensible consumer would fall for the latter, regardless of the fact that items sold as such may contain a mountain of bacteria and other types of pathogen.

The fact that items sold in “ukay-ukay” – clothes, bags, shoes, underwear, sports wear, beach wear and evening gowns – are largely considered bootlegged or illegal has not escaped the consciousness of the Filipino shopper. But since raids are next to non-existent – at least in places outside of the capital, Metro Manila – and even government employees help themselves to such a smorgasbord of shopping delight, what can the Bureau of Customs really do?

“Ukay-ukay” has long been entrenched in the Philippine shopping scene, with its early start in Baguio City and during difficult times when the Philippines received loads of relief goods from the United States and other wealthy countries in response to a natural disaster, crisis or emergency – hence, the early Bisaya term “relip” for such goods. Now, these relief goods intended for charity are a very booming business, with entire market spaces often devoted for the sale of these items and these items alone. Even local farmers’ markets have not escaped the deluge of relief and second-hand goods – alongside piles of banana and squash and okra and dried fish can be smelled the acrid assault to the noses of treated used clothing opened for the first time.

But all pathogenic and legal concerns aside, diving for that pair of New Balance running shoes for only $5 when it sells more than $75 in the name-brand sports shop can be an experience unto itself; finding a barely-used bikini top by Victoria’s Secret selling for $50 and here selling for less than $1 can be a treasure-hunting of sorts. Sure, you don’t help shore up the local economy by buying second-hand, but who can blame you when your wages are even barely enough to buy rice and fish?

Photos by Lester Anthony Lope

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But with plenty of choices, where do you begin?

One look at the Philippine map and you can see that there are scattered islands in the central part of the country. This is the Visayas, home of the Philippine beach capital Boracay, and a host of gorgeous others.

If the perpetual gridlock of Manila starts getting on your nerves, why not head over to Cebu – Manila minus the mayhem – and island-hop your way to the best beaches in the region? Cebu is gateway to the finest beaches in the Visayas while also boasting some of its own that have earned loyal following.

Cebu

Most people consider Cebu as Manila without its headache-inducing traffic. It’s actually the second largest city in the Philippines, and the economic hub of the Visayas. So everything you would want in a metropolis is here. And Cebu has plenty of beaches that people from Manila have fallen in love with again and again. Malapascua, Moalboal and Bantayan Island easily come to mind. Oslob has become famous for its whale sharks, while Camotes Island is alluring for its native beauty and being tucked away.

Bohol

The textbook case of “Chocolate Hills” (karst limestone outcrops that spread for miles and miles around) is also a beach lover’s paradise. The beaches of Panglao Island come to mind first because of sand so white it blinds the unsuspecting and makes the already turquoise waters sparkle even more. Doljo and Alona Beaches are all-season favorites. Swimming here is safe, even at night. If Travel+Leisure were to be believed, it is one of the best secret beaches in the world. (Author’s note: Last time I checked, which was in 2006, Panglao surely bedazzled.)

Siquijor

An hour away from Dumaguete lies Siquijor, in another lifetime known as the sorcery hotspot of the Visayas. Today, it enchants unsuspecting travelers with its “raw” beaches in the town of San Juan. But come here quick before San Juan is overrun with beachfront forest of hotels and facilities that would “ruin” the view. There are already a number of resorts and dive centers here, but the place is still rather desolate. If you want to beach bum with government facilities nearby, the Salagdoong Beach in the town of Maria is worthy of a day trip.

Samar

A few years back, Samar burst to mainstream attention when adolescent boys needed to be rescued from a cave that would eventually known as the gargantuan Calbiga Cave Complex thought to tunnel through the entire province. But beyond the caves also lies another enchanted destination of Calico-an Island that is still raw with the absence of “development.” It’s also an up and coming surf spot.

Leyte

In Philippine history class, Leyte was where Gen. Douglas MacArthur fulfilled his “I shall return” promise. Cruise ship passengers on a Southeast Asian island-hopping tour once stopped over for lunch at Kalanggaman Beach. Many of them have likely sworn that one day, they too, shall return.

Photo by Paolo Manalac, Coolm36, Roberto Verzo, jelynnc and Debbie Tingzon

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But with plenty of choices, where do you begin?

One look at the Philippine map and you can see that there are scattered islands in the central part of the country. This is the Visayas, home of the Philippine beach capital Boracay, and a host of gorgeous others.

To get started, book a flight to Bacolod, Negros island’s capital, or Iloilo City, Panay island’s capital, and beach-bum in all direction. Both islands have plenty of coastal towns that not only teem with seafood, but more important – at least for beachgoers – blue waters and white sands. Here are the most well-loved – although not all of them are well-known – beaches of the Visayas.

Negros Occidental

Touted as the Sugar Bowl of the Philippines because of its vast sugarcane lands, Negros is sweeter than its primary crop, especially when it comes to beaches. Northern Negros, otherwise famous for its sugar mills, Spanish-era mansions and ruins, and a “hacienda” (sugar plantations) way of life boasts of Jomabo Island, Lakawon and Carbin Reef. More white sand awaits at Cauayan’s Punta Bulata, peaks at Sipalay’s Punta Ballo and Campomanes Bay, and then tapers off at Hinoba-an’s Pitogo Island.

The beaches here are ideal for scuba-diving, as the shore typically slopes abruptly a short distance from the tide line. Danjuagan Island, once an exclusive biosphere reserve, has now opened its doors to the public who can afford its $40 fee for daytime excursion. Pitogo Island also bills itself as an exclusive resort, for even locals can no longer cross from the mainland to this gem of a rock in the middle of Nabulao Bay without prior reservation.

Negros Oriental

From Negros Occidental’s Hinobaan, you cross over the imaginary line that separates it from Negros Oriental at the “heel” of Negros. From a beach bum’s point of view, there’s not much difference because the expanse of Sulu Sea yields more secrets in terms of white sand beaches.

Apo Island off the coast of Dauin and Zamboanguita is a marine reserve, so CLAYGO (clean as you go) policy is strictly enforced. As you round the heel of Negros, you touch base with the most American of all Negros cities, Dumaguete. From here on north, there’s Manjuyod and its famous sandbar. The whale sharks of Oslob are just 20 minutes north across Negros Oriental’s Sibulan via ferry.

Cebu

Most people consider Cebu as Manila without its headache-inducing traffic. It’s actually the second largest city in the Philippines, and the economic hub of the Visayas. So everything you would want in a metropolis is here. And Cebu has plenty of beaches that people from Manila have fallen in love with again and again. Malapascua, Moalboal and Bantayan Island easily come to mind. Oslob has become famous for its whale sharks, while Camotes Island is alluring for its native beauty and being tucked away.

Bohol

The textbook case of “Chocolate Hills” (karst limestone outcrops that spread for miles and miles around) is also a beach lover’s paradise. The beaches of Panglao Island come to mind first because of sand so white it blinds the unsuspecting and makes the already turquoise waters sparkle even more. Doljo and Alona Beaches are all-season favorites. Swimming here is safe, even at night. If Travel+Leisure were to be believed, it is one of the best secret beaches in the world. (Author’s note: Last time I checked, which was in 2006, Panglao surely bedazzled.)

Siquijor

An hour away from Dumaguete lies Siquijor, in another lifetime known as the sorcery hotspot of the Visayas. Today, it enchants unsuspecting travelers with its “raw” beaches in the town of San Juan. But come here quick before San Juan is overrun with beachfront forest of hotels and facilities that would “ruin” the view. There are already a number of resorts and dive centers here, but the place is still rather desolate. If you want to beach bum with government facilities nearby, the Salagdoong Beach in the town of Maria is worthy of a day trip.

Samar

A few years back, Samar burst to mainstream attention when adolescent boys needed to be rescued from a cave that would eventually known as the gargantuan Calbiga Cave Complex thought to tunnel through the entire province. But beyond the caves also lies another enchanted destination of Calico-an Island that is still raw with the absence of “development.” It’s also an up and coming surf spot.

Leyte

In Philippine history class, Leyte was where Gen. Douglas MacArthur fulfilled his “I shall return” promise. Cruise ship passengers on a Southeast Asian island-hopping tour once stopped over for lunch at Kalanggaman Beach. Many of them have likely sworn that one day, they too, shall return.

Panay

Boracay is located on the northern tip of the Panay island. But even without this dog-bone shaped island that has beguiled many (and disappointed a few), Panay has plenty of beach contenders that could give Boracay a run for its money.

In fact, if development in Sicogon were not halted in the 1970s, the latter would have been the beach capital of the country. Perhaps because they lack the usual tourist infrastructure – bringing a hammock and a tent will not hurt – and are way out of the usual itinerary, Gigantes and Sicogon are way “undeveloped” by Boracay standards. But if you are after having the beach all to yourself, the beaches of Carles will reward you for leaving civilization behind. Close to the Negros Occidental towns of Valladolid and Pulupandan lie the islands of Guimaras which is administratively part of Panay. Guisi Beach has earned quite a following, but there are a handful other beaches in a handful other Guimaras islands that await discovery.

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If you are coming from Bohol, getting to Siquijor is straightforward. Take a fastcraft to Siquijor from Tagbilaran (capital of Bohol), although the trip is longer (3 hours) and fare more expensive (P890 one-way or P1,690 two-way or US$22.50 and $42.50 respectively as of March 2013).

Getting from Cebu is somewhat a go-through-the-hoops process if you opt for an overland-ferry-overland-ferry route. Otherwise, you can book a plane ticket from Cebu to Dumaguete.

Should you choose the more painful itinerary, you can take a bus in Cebu’s South Terminal bound for Liloan for a travel time of three hours. Fare is P200 (US$5) for an air-conditioned ride and cheaper for a regular bus.

From Liloan in southern Cebu, you can take a ferry to Sibulan, a short jeepney ride north of Dumaguete. Ferry time is less than 30 minutes and fare including terminal fee is around P60 (US$1.50). From Sibulan, you can take a multi-cab or jeepney bound for Dumaguete and pay P11.

Dumaguete is the usual gateway to Siquijor because the former is a tourist hub itself, and an ideal jump-off point to other attractions in Negros Oriental. Dumaguete is a university town courtesy of Silliman University and has a vibrant and well-entrenched expatriate community of mostly North American origin. Manjuyod Sandbar is about two hours to the north, while Apo Island is about the same distance to the south (via overland-ferry route).

Because of low barriers to entry into this small Visayan island, a day trip to Siquijor from Dumaguete can be arranged, or an extended trip that includes Siquijor in the itinerary can be planned instead. Others with time to devote to an extended Visayan trip normally make the Boracay-Antique-Roxas-Iloilo-Bacolod-Cebu-Bohol-Siquijor-Dumaguete-Apo Island circuit, or a variation thereof.

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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Given the urgent need to hold on fast to whatever primary forests we have left, it is apparent that Sibuyan Island is precious from the standpoint of ecological conservation. From the tourism perspective, it is both fragile and yet alluring, as the idea of experiencing nature in its untouched state is somehow hard to believe, given the widespread destruction of wilderness to give way to human civilization.

This photo essay puts together a fleeting look at an island that one day soon may succumb to the pressures of tourism, mining and that innocent yet loaded word, “development.” Hopefully, the people of this unassuming island would stand up to external pressures that could reduce their jewel of a homeland to a rubble of mining waste.

Part of the reason why Sibuyan Island is still largely inaccessible is because it is isolated from major ports, so long hours at sea are necessary. From the “nearby” port of Culasi in Roxas City, it is 6 hours on boat during summer, and definitely longer in rougher seas during the wet season. Even if you were to travel by plane and land in the bigger Tablas Island, there is still two hours of boat ride to get to Sibuyan.

The town square is where the community congregates when there are important political and social occasions. Judging from how deserted this “plaza” looks, the locals are either busy in the farms or fishing, or there simply are not enough people willing to endure the summer heat.

Public transport is scarce in Sibuyan. There are “jeepneys” in the morning but they are no longer available after lunch. Tricycles are another option, but they too, are hard to come by.

Characteristic of any “undeveloped” town, rough roads such as these could stretch for miles. If you want to summit Mount Guiting-Guiting, prepare to endure hours and hours of seriously rough roads.

During summer, rivers do dry up, so locals typically utilize them for transport.

Bicycles on Sibuyan Island have become a popular and cheap mode of transport. Bicycles like this were thought to have been bought from the post-tsunami surplus of Japan.

The standard tricycle fare from the main town to the jump off point in Magdiwang could run up to P300 apiece with luggage. Given the scarcity of transport and the difficult conditions of the road, P300 is a fair enough price.

The “bahay kubo” is still an ubiquitous structure in this unassuming island. Thatched houses such as this make good use of abundant indigenous materials like wood, bamboo and shingles made of palm fronds. Their light construction and ventilation make it bearable to stay indoors during the hot months.

Copra farming is a major economic activity in this island. Coconut trees can be grown easily and need very little maintenance. In dire economic situation, they can even be planted upland making otherwise non-arable areas productive.

Accommodation in Sibuyan is still pretty basic, given the fact that the bulk of tourists – mountaineers – bring with them tents and hammocks that they could just set up in designated areas, making inn-keeping a rather slow business.

Sibuyan Island in Romblon Series – Mt. Guiting-Guiting, The K2 of the Philippines >>

Photos by Lester Lope and Maevin Poncejan-Recto

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Rising out of central Philippine seas is a crescent-shaped island that was, millions of years ago, a 2,000-meter seamount pushed up by seismic forces to become the jagged peaks of Mount Guiting-Guiting. Because it was not part of the larger Philippine landmass, the flora and fauna of “G2” (as Mt. Guiting-Guiting is called in Philippine mountaineering circles) is uniquely its own, worthy of an extensive study by naturalists and biologists who consider the island as having the densest forest in the world. The unbelievably rich plant and animal life G2 contains has made it the “Galapagos of Asia,” a distinction that puts it in the radar of eco-travelers.

Below is a compilation of glimpses that make G2 and Sibuyan Island a compelling destination for all nature lovers.

The sheer cliffs of G2 have worked to the advantage of the preservation of the forests in the island. Logging on its steep slopes would require more effort than usual (not to mention transporting the logs in a punishing 6-hour boat ride to the nearest major port).

Walking sticks escape their predators by using a common sense technique of camouflage. Predators could easily mistake this clever insect as an unpalatable dried twig.

Terrestrial orchids also find home on G2’s steep slopes and make for pleasant diversions when mountaineers become too tired to move further up.

A quick look at this succulent plant reminds climbers of the geologic past of G2. One can speculate that this plant may have been a staghorn coral in its past life because of its uncanny resemblance to the latter.

This looks like a silver-bellied cicada (with its silver belly and green wings), but because the faunal inventory has not yet been completed, who knows?

Another yet-to-be-identified nocturnal, leaf-feeding insect found on one of the camps in G2.

Pitcher plants lure insects into their sticky receptacles and then dissolve them with acid-like enzymes. Pitcher plants, some big enough and capable of devouring rodents, are a minority in the plant kingdom because they are carnivorous.

Another wild orchid found on the slope of G2 is the lady slippers orchid because of its unmistakable resemblance to its namesake.

Rattan is a commercially important plant-based raw material in the Philippines because it can be fashioned into tasteful and elegant furniture. The country is in fact one of the major producers of rattan furnitures in Asia.

The thick canopy of G2 slopes is a refreshing and inspiring sight in a country whose rainforests are fast disappearing due to commercial and illegal logging.

Sibuyan Island in Romblon Series – Sibuyan Island: Way Off the Beaten Path >>

Photos by Lester Lope and Maevin Poncejan-Recto

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So the next time you are in the country and are awakened at the most ungodly hours because of a crowing rooster with messed up body clocks, try to see the bigger picture first before you attempt to commit animal cruelty.

Here is the second part of Top 10 Filipino quirks and oddities explained. Feel free to share your observations or hilarious encounters with Filipino behaviours in the comments.

1. Top-loading

The Filipinos’ resourcefulness to stretch any scarce resource can be seen not only in their culinary inventiveness to make do with what is otherwise kitchen leftovers, but also in their ability to push the limits of vehicle capacity, hence the oft-seen case of overloading. Top-loading is overloading, with excess passengers taking their seats in the rafters. Top-loading is often a traffic case in remote rural areas where public transport comes by very rarely (if at all), but can still even be seen in capital cities, especially when everyone (lodging in the city) is in a rush to get home (to their hometowns) for the weekends.

2. The Filipino time

When you’re not really in a rush and the other person is also not in rush, and there are no serious consequences for not rushing, what is the incentive of arriving on time? Of course, this is fast becoming a bygone trend in urban settings where young (BPO) professionals had to clock in on time, or otherwise. But in smaller towns and cities with laidback lifestyle and with no punctilious master of efficiency to enforce strict time-keeping, arriving within 15 minutes of agreed time is without serious consequence. Punching in within 10 minutes of clock-in time is often not deducted from the paycheck.

3. Extended family of extended family

Filipino families are tightly woven, sometimes to a fault. The reason why retirement homes in the Philippines are as scarce as snow in the tropics is the fact that old members of the family are taken care of until they finally “retire.” This devotion, and sometimes sense of obligation, extends not just to immediate relatives, but also to in-laws, and in not uncommon cases, in-laws of in-laws.

4. You had me at “psst!”

Many Filipino anecdotes have been passed around how to best call the attention of a fellow Filipino when in a foreign crowd. And the consensus is a succinct “psst.” Regardless of where the Filipino came from, he or she would respond to this otherwise “impolite” call to attention of a “kababayan” (fellow countryman). (The really rude call to attention would be “hoy!”, a “you!” call to no one in particular.)

5. The penchant for everything melodramatic

One movie marathon of Filipino flicks would make a foreigner think that Filipinos are a sentimental bunch. The sadder the “teleserye” (serial soap opera) the better. The more vicious the “kontrabida” (antagonist), the stronger the conflict, the more complicated the plot – as in the bestfriend of the cousin of the mother of the heroine has finally revealed that the latter was adopted which the heroine confirmed from a long ago forgotten midwife – the happier the ending. This is because Filipinos can easily relate to struggle – Mt. Everest huge struggle – and the triumph in the end gives them hope that they, too, one day, may overcome all obstacles in the tradition of King of the Ring Manny Pacquiao, and live happily ever after.

The post Only in the Philippines: Top 10 Filipino Cultural Quirks Explained Part 2 appeared first on .

So the next time you are in the country and are awakened at the most ungodly hours because of a crowing rooster with messed up body clocks, try to see the bigger picture first before you attempt to commit animal cruelty.

Here is the first part of Top 10 Filipino quirks and oddities explained. Feel free to share your observations or hilarious encounters with Filipino behaviours in the comments.

1. The perennially crowing rooster with a messed up body clock

Philippine roosters have a nasty habit of crowing at the top of their lungs even well before the sun comes out of its hiding. This is because their forefathers have been artificially selected by early-rising Filipinos who had to work at the farm at the crack of dawn to avoid the intolerable heat come 9 o’clock and onwards. Roosters are also no respecters of people taking their “siesta” (afternoon nap) that one begins to wonder whether they crow just to irk people who are trying to get some rest.

2. The burning desire to be white

One look at the personal care department in any Philippine supermarket and you will see the deluge of products that promise to whiten in just seven days! This, of course, confounds white-skinned visitors who specifically come here to splash on some color. If getting a tan indicates that you can afford to holiday in the tropics, so is being white-skinned an indicator that one need not toil under the scorching heat of the tropical sun to earn one’s livelihood. Those who work in the farms are understandably darker than most, and had to endure the midday sun to put food on the table when night comes.

3. “Tingi” mentality

Filipinos take the concept of retail and break it down further into micro proportions. Foreign backpackers are often amazed when they find themselves in Filipino supermarkets because everything they could possibly need already come in pre-packaged mini-sizes. Shampoos and toothpaste in sachets; soaps in 60g packets; mineral water in 330ml bottles; and canned goods in 150g portions. For most Filipinos, buying retail has a lot more to do with economics than preference.

4. Ambiguity

Like most Southeast Asians, Filipinos – especially when they have to deliver bad news – beat around the bush in an effort to sound as least hurtful as possible. This can even be seen in their language, in how they couch serious news in roundabout phrasing, or euphemize emotionally damaging words with something less painful to the ear. Delivering bad news may take the form of “Something happened to John” when in truth, John had already figured in a messy road accident and was already declared “expired” on arrival to the hospital.

5. The “eyes” have it

Filipinos are often thought of speaking in gestures, or conveying information with a slight twitch of the eyebrows or a pout of the lips. It is not uncommon to be answered with both eyebrows raised when you ask a “yes” or “no” question (both eyebrows raised means yes), or a slight shrug of the shoulders when the answer is “maybe.” A generation ago, parents often warn their children of impending disaster when a house rule is violated, just with a “ready to devour” look. This is particularly true of Negrenses (peoples of Negros) whose parents would often discipline their unruly children to behave with just one stern look.

Click Here for Part 2 »

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You do not really need to go that far to be convinced. In low tide, the underwater world of San Juan emerges, enchanting lovers of all things marine life.

On the surface, the beaches of San Juan are raw, unprocessed. Unlike the well-manicured white sands of Boracay, San Juan beaches appear as what they should if left untouched by human habitation. This natural state, however, is threatened by the burgeoning tourist industry in the province of Siquijor and the relentless construction of accommodations along the beach to address anticipated demands in the near future.

The best time to visit Siquijor was yesterday. In a few years, San Juan beaches will no longer be kept a national secret. People from near and far will be coming in droves, and horrors, such deluge of troops might transform the slow pace of life in this ultra-laidback province into one hectic scramble for a piece of beachfront property. Before that happens, pack a pair of bikinis and a set of snorkel gear, and hop on to the next ferry.

San Juan has miles and miles and miles of white sand beaches that are, surprisingly, crowd-free even in stretches where there are residential properties. The entire time I was swimming (and the sun was already high), I was the only person in the water.

San Juan beaches are covered in coral stones and seaweeds. Further offshore are the best dive spots one can find in Siquijor. Some of the snorkel spots are difficult to get to. If you do get there, you risk owning the place for the day.

There are a handful of extremely affordable accommodations right on the beach. Camping is one option.

This is the part of the province that gets an unfair share of sunsets. The sun sets over Cuernos de Negros, a pointed mountain range in Dumaguete, and casts its golden glow on the palm-fringed beaches of San Juan.

Intertidal life come out of the hiding when the water is low and the sun is up. Herons and egrets also scope out the shore for free crustacean meal.

San Juan sunsets are the most dramatic in Siquijor. Not even clouds could get in the way.

If there is one down side to beach bumming in San Juan, it’s hauling yourself up right after sunset if you don’t have accommodation nearby. Transportation can get tricky after-hours.

Click here for next article (Siquijor series) – Buhisan Lodge Review>>

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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More than the well-preserved structures, however, what struck me was the uncanny feeling that I was present at that particular time period when the church was just being built. A breeze blowing through the airy windows of its convent and a bright, quiet afternoon all made for one precious time travel experience. For this alone, Lazi should never be missed.

The San Isidro Labrador (St. Isidore the Laborer) Church was constructed from coral stones and local hardwood and finished before the turn of the 19th century.

The wooden floors of San Isidro Labrador Church are remarkably well-preserved (and shiny!). A walk down this aisle would be, well, historic.

The Baroque design of the church is reflected in its ornate and gilded “retablo” or shelves “behind the altar” that contain sacred images.

Priests used to give their sermons from pulpits like this. This one was recently restored through the help of the United States Embassy.

Iconography is central to Catholicism. San Isidro Labrador Church has managed to preserve their century-old icons. The “pieta” or the image of Mary holding the dead body of Christ is one icon always present in old Catholic churches.

The confessional is where Catholics perform the Sacrament of Penance; where they confess their transgressions to the priest and are, in turn, forgiven. Catholic friars during the time of the Philippine Revolution in the late 19th century were suspected of using this sacred booth as a medium for espionage.

The “retablo” on the side awaits restoration, whereas the pulpit on the left has just been given facelift.

The plaque on the wall recognizes the church as a National Cultural Treasure. The plaque was inscribed in 2001.

The convent is still used by the priest as his residential quarters. A small Catholic school operates downstairs.

The Lazi convent is reputed to be the biggest of century-old convents in the Philippines. Up close, it is immense!

I travelled back in time as I gazed out of the convent’s windows and into the church on a lazy, quiet afternoon. The Siquijor Heritage Museum, found on the same floor and just opposite this perspective, contains a collection of mostly Catholic artifacts special to Lazi. The museum could use some serious restoration. Picture-taking was not allowed.

Looking out of a huge window into a sunny, quiet afternoon was an experience unto itself. I seemed to have been transported back to that day when the acacia tree was just a sapling.

Click here for next article (Siquijor series) – San Juan, Siquijor >>

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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Most of Baguio’s visitors know of the city as a former hill station of the Americans shortly after World War II. However, before that, Baguio was called “Kafagway”, an old Ibaloi word that means “wide open space”.

Kafagway

The Spanish first came to the region in the early 19th century and tried to colonize the locals. Strong-willed and proud, they refused to be cowed and retreated further into the mountains. Because of this, the Spaniards decided to establish rancherias and left them under the responsibility of the local aristocracy.

When the Americans arrived in 1900, Kafagway was mostly a marshland and a pasture for cattle during the dry season. Owned by Mateo Carino, it only had a few houses and no roads to speak of.

Because of its cool climate, the Americans thought it would be an ideal place to set as a summer getaway. Governor William Howard Taft and other officials readily proposed that it was to be the “summer capital” of the country.

In November 1900, the first civil government in the Benguet Province was established, with Kafagway as the capital. The name Baguio is said to have come from the Ibaloi word “bigyiw”, a moss-like plant that grew wild around the area.

American Names

Visitors to Baguio will note that many of the places have American sounding names. This is due to the fact that many of the city’s planners were Americans. Major Lyman W.V. Kennon designed the road that connects Rosario town in La Union to Baguio City. Originally called Benguet Road and opened in 1905, it was renamed Kennon Road in his honor.

Architect and urban designer Daniel Burnham was commissioned to design the plans for Baguio City, along with Manila City and the Provincial Capitol Building in Bacolod City. The main park in Baguio is named in his honor. Burnham’s name is associated with several structures in Chicago and Washington D.C.

The Official Summer Capital

On June 1, 1903, the American colonial government passed a resolution that named Baguio City as the summer capital of the Philippine archipelago. The resolution also included a call to create structures, towns and transportation. Baguio was designed to be the summer residence of the officers and employees of the Insular Government, with Camp John Hay (its later and current name) as the ideal site.

The years that followed saw the rapid growth of Baguio City. A telephone system was put into place in the same year. In 1905 the Baguio Country Club was established and two years later, construction of the Baguio General Hospital began. In 1908, the forerunner of the Philippine Military Academy (PMA) was moved to Baguio from its original site in Intramuros, Manila.

In 1909, Baguio became the second city to be chartered in the Philippines.

World War II

The mountain city was heavily damaged during World War II. The city was the initial target of the Japanese air forces, with bombs destroying many of its structures. When the Imperial Army captured the city, Camp John Hay became the Japanese garrison and part concentration camp. In 1944, General Yamashita made Baguio his headquarters and the next year, the combined forces of Filipinos and Americans fought to liberate the city. In September 3, 1945, Gen. Yamashita signed an agreement stating the unconditional surrender of the Japanese Army.

Rising From the Ashes

The citizens of Baguio proved to be resilient. In the years after World War II, the city picked up the pieces and established itself as the center of commerce, education and recreation in the Cordilleras.

While its official capacity as the summer capital lapsed in 1976, the name stuck. Despite the many natural calamities and other challenges the city faced over the years, it has remained strong and continues to grow. Many tourists still visit the city, and it has seen rapid expansion in the past few years. It has also become a jump-off point for many places around the Mountain Region and the Cordilleras.

Baguio is the place to go to if one wishes for a break from the hot Manila weather. The people are warm and welcoming, and are very proud of their heritage. It’s a dynamic city that changes as time goes on, but still manages to hold on to its roots.

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The National Integrated Protected Areas System or NIPAS was only enacted in 1992, but it was only last year that an Executive Order was released identifying 78 areas and protecting them from mining and other ecologically upsetting activities. Delayed by two decades it may be, it is not too late.

Vested interests, however, always find a loophole or two to get their way into choice locations to set up shop. And Philippines has plenty of choice locations, which also happen to be sites intended for preservation. So before these areas fall into corporate hands and get treated as commodity, you would be safer to tick these off your bucket list as early as now (because there are still 71 more!).

1) Palawan

Two heritage sites, 54,000 hectares of marine sanctuary, millions of underwater denizens, limitless adventure possibilities.

2) Batanes

Jaw-dropping mountainscapes, wide open seas, uncompromising culture of honesty, “boring” nightlife, zero crime rate.

3) Zambales

Recently active Mt. Pinatubo, achingly beautiful crater lake, tribal Aetas (Filipino aborigines), mother lode of copper, gold and silver.

4) Batangas

Taal Volcano, “island in a lake on an island in a lake on an island in the ocean” fame. To say that it is picturesque is an understatement.

5) Cagayan de Oro

Recently leveled by Typhoon Sendong, CDO is all a-glitter down below. “Oro” is Spanish for gold, in reference to the gold mining operations that the Spanish observed in the “City of the River of Gold.” Whitewater-rafting and river-trekking hotspot of the Philippines.

6) Siargao Islands Group

Bucas Grande Island enchants with Sohoton Lagoon where endemic flora and fauna await the brave of heart who waits for the low tide to stoop (“sohot”) into the lagoon inside. Stingless jellyfish swim by in millions. Ninety thousand (90,000) hectares divided into disposable and preservation areas; 22,000 hectares allotted for the latter. The rest is likely to be “disposed” to vested interests who are hungry for chromite.

7) Ligawasan Marsh

North Cotabato, Maguindanao, Sultan Kudarat. These are the provinces that the marsh encompasses. At 288,000 hectares, this swampy Eden is home to a multitude of ponds, 92 species of birds, 22 species of freshwater fish, six species of reptiles, 5 species of amphibians and 194 species of plants. It is currently on UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, so get there first before the UNESCO designation makes it a crowded destination.

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