“Ukay-ukay”, which both refers to the open-air rummage sale area and the used or second-hand items sold in such a setup, is increasingly the common Filipinos’ shopping mecca alongside Chinese and Korean one-stop-shops that sell knockoff and low-quality items at unbelievably low prices.

Given the soaring prices of ready-to-wear and off-the-shelf items – to say nothing of name-brands whose prices balloon to 40 times the U.S. dollar – and wage rates not keeping up with inflation, one can easily come to the conclusion that between an expensive and brand new clothing or item (or a knockoff) and an original piece that is several times cheaper and lasts way longer, the money-sensible consumer would fall for the latter, regardless of the fact that items sold as such may contain a mountain of bacteria and other types of pathogen.

The fact that items sold in “ukay-ukay” – clothes, bags, shoes, underwear, sports wear, beach wear and evening gowns – are largely considered bootlegged or illegal has not escaped the consciousness of the Filipino shopper. But since raids are next to non-existent – at least in places outside of the capital, Metro Manila – and even government employees help themselves to such a smorgasbord of shopping delight, what can the Bureau of Customs really do?

“Ukay-ukay” has long been entrenched in the Philippine shopping scene, with its early start in Baguio City and during difficult times when the Philippines received loads of relief goods from the United States and other wealthy countries in response to a natural disaster, crisis or emergency – hence, the early Bisaya term “relip” for such goods. Now, these relief goods intended for charity are a very booming business, with entire market spaces often devoted for the sale of these items and these items alone. Even local farmers’ markets have not escaped the deluge of relief and second-hand goods – alongside piles of banana and squash and okra and dried fish can be smelled the acrid assault to the noses of treated used clothing opened for the first time.

But all pathogenic and legal concerns aside, diving for that pair of New Balance running shoes for only $5 when it sells more than $75 in the name-brand sports shop can be an experience unto itself; finding a barely-used bikini top by Victoria’s Secret selling for $50 and here selling for less than $1 can be a treasure-hunting of sorts. Sure, you don’t help shore up the local economy by buying second-hand, but who can blame you when your wages are even barely enough to buy rice and fish?

Photos by Lester Anthony Lope

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But with plenty of choices, where do you begin?

One look at the Philippine map and you can see that there are scattered islands in the central part of the country. This is the Visayas, home of the Philippine beach capital Boracay, and a host of gorgeous others.

If the perpetual gridlock of Manila starts getting on your nerves, why not head over to Cebu – Manila minus the mayhem – and island-hop your way to the best beaches in the region? Cebu is gateway to the finest beaches in the Visayas while also boasting some of its own that have earned loyal following.

Cebu

Most people consider Cebu as Manila without its headache-inducing traffic. It’s actually the second largest city in the Philippines, and the economic hub of the Visayas. So everything you would want in a metropolis is here. And Cebu has plenty of beaches that people from Manila have fallen in love with again and again. Malapascua, Moalboal and Bantayan Island easily come to mind. Oslob has become famous for its whale sharks, while Camotes Island is alluring for its native beauty and being tucked away.

Bohol

The textbook case of “Chocolate Hills” (karst limestone outcrops that spread for miles and miles around) is also a beach lover’s paradise. The beaches of Panglao Island come to mind first because of sand so white it blinds the unsuspecting and makes the already turquoise waters sparkle even more. Doljo and Alona Beaches are all-season favorites. Swimming here is safe, even at night. If Travel+Leisure were to be believed, it is one of the best secret beaches in the world. (Author’s note: Last time I checked, which was in 2006, Panglao surely bedazzled.)

Siquijor

An hour away from Dumaguete lies Siquijor, in another lifetime known as the sorcery hotspot of the Visayas. Today, it enchants unsuspecting travelers with its “raw” beaches in the town of San Juan. But come here quick before San Juan is overrun with beachfront forest of hotels and facilities that would “ruin” the view. There are already a number of resorts and dive centers here, but the place is still rather desolate. If you want to beach bum with government facilities nearby, the Salagdoong Beach in the town of Maria is worthy of a day trip.

Samar

A few years back, Samar burst to mainstream attention when adolescent boys needed to be rescued from a cave that would eventually known as the gargantuan Calbiga Cave Complex thought to tunnel through the entire province. But beyond the caves also lies another enchanted destination of Calico-an Island that is still raw with the absence of “development.” It’s also an up and coming surf spot.

Leyte

In Philippine history class, Leyte was where Gen. Douglas MacArthur fulfilled his “I shall return” promise. Cruise ship passengers on a Southeast Asian island-hopping tour once stopped over for lunch at Kalanggaman Beach. Many of them have likely sworn that one day, they too, shall return.

Photo by Paolo Manalac, Coolm36, Roberto Verzo, jelynnc and Debbie Tingzon

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Given the urgent need to hold on fast to whatever primary forests we have left, it is apparent that Sibuyan Island is precious from the standpoint of ecological conservation. From the tourism perspective, it is both fragile and yet alluring, as the idea of experiencing nature in its untouched state is somehow hard to believe, given the widespread destruction of wilderness to give way to human civilization.

This photo essay puts together a fleeting look at an island that one day soon may succumb to the pressures of tourism, mining and that innocent yet loaded word, “development.” Hopefully, the people of this unassuming island would stand up to external pressures that could reduce their jewel of a homeland to a rubble of mining waste.

Part of the reason why Sibuyan Island is still largely inaccessible is because it is isolated from major ports, so long hours at sea are necessary. From the “nearby” port of Culasi in Roxas City, it is 6 hours on boat during summer, and definitely longer in rougher seas during the wet season. Even if you were to travel by plane and land in the bigger Tablas Island, there is still two hours of boat ride to get to Sibuyan.

The town square is where the community congregates when there are important political and social occasions. Judging from how deserted this “plaza” looks, the locals are either busy in the farms or fishing, or there simply are not enough people willing to endure the summer heat.

Public transport is scarce in Sibuyan. There are “jeepneys” in the morning but they are no longer available after lunch. Tricycles are another option, but they too, are hard to come by.

Characteristic of any “undeveloped” town, rough roads such as these could stretch for miles. If you want to summit Mount Guiting-Guiting, prepare to endure hours and hours of seriously rough roads.

During summer, rivers do dry up, so locals typically utilize them for transport.

Bicycles on Sibuyan Island have become a popular and cheap mode of transport. Bicycles like this were thought to have been bought from the post-tsunami surplus of Japan.

The standard tricycle fare from the main town to the jump off point in Magdiwang could run up to P300 apiece with luggage. Given the scarcity of transport and the difficult conditions of the road, P300 is a fair enough price.

The “bahay kubo” is still an ubiquitous structure in this unassuming island. Thatched houses such as this make good use of abundant indigenous materials like wood, bamboo and shingles made of palm fronds. Their light construction and ventilation make it bearable to stay indoors during the hot months.

Copra farming is a major economic activity in this island. Coconut trees can be grown easily and need very little maintenance. In dire economic situation, they can even be planted upland making otherwise non-arable areas productive.

Accommodation in Sibuyan is still pretty basic, given the fact that the bulk of tourists – mountaineers – bring with them tents and hammocks that they could just set up in designated areas, making inn-keeping a rather slow business.

Sibuyan Island in Romblon Series – Mt. Guiting-Guiting, The K2 of the Philippines >>

Photos by Lester Lope and Maevin Poncejan-Recto

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Rising out of central Philippine seas is a crescent-shaped island that was, millions of years ago, a 2,000-meter seamount pushed up by seismic forces to become the jagged peaks of Mount Guiting-Guiting. Because it was not part of the larger Philippine landmass, the flora and fauna of “G2” (as Mt. Guiting-Guiting is called in Philippine mountaineering circles) is uniquely its own, worthy of an extensive study by naturalists and biologists who consider the island as having the densest forest in the world. The unbelievably rich plant and animal life G2 contains has made it the “Galapagos of Asia,” a distinction that puts it in the radar of eco-travelers.

Below is a compilation of glimpses that make G2 and Sibuyan Island a compelling destination for all nature lovers.

The sheer cliffs of G2 have worked to the advantage of the preservation of the forests in the island. Logging on its steep slopes would require more effort than usual (not to mention transporting the logs in a punishing 6-hour boat ride to the nearest major port).

Walking sticks escape their predators by using a common sense technique of camouflage. Predators could easily mistake this clever insect as an unpalatable dried twig.

Terrestrial orchids also find home on G2’s steep slopes and make for pleasant diversions when mountaineers become too tired to move further up.

A quick look at this succulent plant reminds climbers of the geologic past of G2. One can speculate that this plant may have been a staghorn coral in its past life because of its uncanny resemblance to the latter.

This looks like a silver-bellied cicada (with its silver belly and green wings), but because the faunal inventory has not yet been completed, who knows?

Another yet-to-be-identified nocturnal, leaf-feeding insect found on one of the camps in G2.

Pitcher plants lure insects into their sticky receptacles and then dissolve them with acid-like enzymes. Pitcher plants, some big enough and capable of devouring rodents, are a minority in the plant kingdom because they are carnivorous.

Another wild orchid found on the slope of G2 is the lady slippers orchid because of its unmistakable resemblance to its namesake.

Rattan is a commercially important plant-based raw material in the Philippines because it can be fashioned into tasteful and elegant furniture. The country is in fact one of the major producers of rattan furnitures in Asia.

The thick canopy of G2 slopes is a refreshing and inspiring sight in a country whose rainforests are fast disappearing due to commercial and illegal logging.

Sibuyan Island in Romblon Series – Sibuyan Island: Way Off the Beaten Path >>

Photos by Lester Lope and Maevin Poncejan-Recto

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You do not really need to go that far to be convinced. In low tide, the underwater world of San Juan emerges, enchanting lovers of all things marine life.

On the surface, the beaches of San Juan are raw, unprocessed. Unlike the well-manicured white sands of Boracay, San Juan beaches appear as what they should if left untouched by human habitation. This natural state, however, is threatened by the burgeoning tourist industry in the province of Siquijor and the relentless construction of accommodations along the beach to address anticipated demands in the near future.

The best time to visit Siquijor was yesterday. In a few years, San Juan beaches will no longer be kept a national secret. People from near and far will be coming in droves, and horrors, such deluge of troops might transform the slow pace of life in this ultra-laidback province into one hectic scramble for a piece of beachfront property. Before that happens, pack a pair of bikinis and a set of snorkel gear, and hop on to the next ferry.

San Juan has miles and miles and miles of white sand beaches that are, surprisingly, crowd-free even in stretches where there are residential properties. The entire time I was swimming (and the sun was already high), I was the only person in the water.

San Juan beaches are covered in coral stones and seaweeds. Further offshore are the best dive spots one can find in Siquijor. Some of the snorkel spots are difficult to get to. If you do get there, you risk owning the place for the day.

There are a handful of extremely affordable accommodations right on the beach. Camping is one option.

This is the part of the province that gets an unfair share of sunsets. The sun sets over Cuernos de Negros, a pointed mountain range in Dumaguete, and casts its golden glow on the palm-fringed beaches of San Juan.

Intertidal life come out of the hiding when the water is low and the sun is up. Herons and egrets also scope out the shore for free crustacean meal.

San Juan sunsets are the most dramatic in Siquijor. Not even clouds could get in the way.

If there is one down side to beach bumming in San Juan, it’s hauling yourself up right after sunset if you don’t have accommodation nearby. Transportation can get tricky after-hours.

Click here for next article (Siquijor series) – Buhisan Lodge Review>>

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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More than the well-preserved structures, however, what struck me was the uncanny feeling that I was present at that particular time period when the church was just being built. A breeze blowing through the airy windows of its convent and a bright, quiet afternoon all made for one precious time travel experience. For this alone, Lazi should never be missed.

The San Isidro Labrador (St. Isidore the Laborer) Church was constructed from coral stones and local hardwood and finished before the turn of the 19th century.

The wooden floors of San Isidro Labrador Church are remarkably well-preserved (and shiny!). A walk down this aisle would be, well, historic.

The Baroque design of the church is reflected in its ornate and gilded “retablo” or shelves “behind the altar” that contain sacred images.

Priests used to give their sermons from pulpits like this. This one was recently restored through the help of the United States Embassy.

Iconography is central to Catholicism. San Isidro Labrador Church has managed to preserve their century-old icons. The “pieta” or the image of Mary holding the dead body of Christ is one icon always present in old Catholic churches.

The confessional is where Catholics perform the Sacrament of Penance; where they confess their transgressions to the priest and are, in turn, forgiven. Catholic friars during the time of the Philippine Revolution in the late 19th century were suspected of using this sacred booth as a medium for espionage.

The “retablo” on the side awaits restoration, whereas the pulpit on the left has just been given facelift.

The plaque on the wall recognizes the church as a National Cultural Treasure. The plaque was inscribed in 2001.

The convent is still used by the priest as his residential quarters. A small Catholic school operates downstairs.

The Lazi convent is reputed to be the biggest of century-old convents in the Philippines. Up close, it is immense!

I travelled back in time as I gazed out of the convent’s windows and into the church on a lazy, quiet afternoon. The Siquijor Heritage Museum, found on the same floor and just opposite this perspective, contains a collection of mostly Catholic artifacts special to Lazi. The museum could use some serious restoration. Picture-taking was not allowed.

Looking out of a huge window into a sunny, quiet afternoon was an experience unto itself. I seemed to have been transported back to that day when the acacia tree was just a sapling.

Click here for next article (Siquijor series) – San Juan, Siquijor >>

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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Most of Baguio’s visitors know of the city as a former hill station of the Americans shortly after World War II. However, before that, Baguio was called “Kafagway”, an old Ibaloi word that means “wide open space”.

Kafagway

The Spanish first came to the region in the early 19th century and tried to colonize the locals. Strong-willed and proud, they refused to be cowed and retreated further into the mountains. Because of this, the Spaniards decided to establish rancherias and left them under the responsibility of the local aristocracy.

When the Americans arrived in 1900, Kafagway was mostly a marshland and a pasture for cattle during the dry season. Owned by Mateo Carino, it only had a few houses and no roads to speak of.

Because of its cool climate, the Americans thought it would be an ideal place to set as a summer getaway. Governor William Howard Taft and other officials readily proposed that it was to be the “summer capital” of the country.

In November 1900, the first civil government in the Benguet Province was established, with Kafagway as the capital. The name Baguio is said to have come from the Ibaloi word “bigyiw”, a moss-like plant that grew wild around the area.

American Names

Visitors to Baguio will note that many of the places have American sounding names. This is due to the fact that many of the city’s planners were Americans. Major Lyman W.V. Kennon designed the road that connects Rosario town in La Union to Baguio City. Originally called Benguet Road and opened in 1905, it was renamed Kennon Road in his honor.

Architect and urban designer Daniel Burnham was commissioned to design the plans for Baguio City, along with Manila City and the Provincial Capitol Building in Bacolod City. The main park in Baguio is named in his honor. Burnham’s name is associated with several structures in Chicago and Washington D.C.

The Official Summer Capital

On June 1, 1903, the American colonial government passed a resolution that named Baguio City as the summer capital of the Philippine archipelago. The resolution also included a call to create structures, towns and transportation. Baguio was designed to be the summer residence of the officers and employees of the Insular Government, with Camp John Hay (its later and current name) as the ideal site.

The years that followed saw the rapid growth of Baguio City. A telephone system was put into place in the same year. In 1905 the Baguio Country Club was established and two years later, construction of the Baguio General Hospital began. In 1908, the forerunner of the Philippine Military Academy (PMA) was moved to Baguio from its original site in Intramuros, Manila.

In 1909, Baguio became the second city to be chartered in the Philippines.

World War II

The mountain city was heavily damaged during World War II. The city was the initial target of the Japanese air forces, with bombs destroying many of its structures. When the Imperial Army captured the city, Camp John Hay became the Japanese garrison and part concentration camp. In 1944, General Yamashita made Baguio his headquarters and the next year, the combined forces of Filipinos and Americans fought to liberate the city. In September 3, 1945, Gen. Yamashita signed an agreement stating the unconditional surrender of the Japanese Army.

Rising From the Ashes

The citizens of Baguio proved to be resilient. In the years after World War II, the city picked up the pieces and established itself as the center of commerce, education and recreation in the Cordilleras.

While its official capacity as the summer capital lapsed in 1976, the name stuck. Despite the many natural calamities and other challenges the city faced over the years, it has remained strong and continues to grow. Many tourists still visit the city, and it has seen rapid expansion in the past few years. It has also become a jump-off point for many places around the Mountain Region and the Cordilleras.

Baguio is the place to go to if one wishes for a break from the hot Manila weather. The people are warm and welcoming, and are very proud of their heritage. It’s a dynamic city that changes as time goes on, but still manages to hold on to its roots.

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To get to Maria, you can take a “habal-habal” (heavy-duty motorcycle that should only seat two but usually seats four or more depending on the direness of the situation) from Larena for US$5 to and from. Or, you can rent an entire tricycle for a whole day tour around the diminutive island of Siquijor (which only takes two hours on moderate speed) for US$25. Some even pay less if they are only a couple. Travel time from Larena to Maria via a mountain highway is one hour or shorter one way.

For day-trippers, Maria is doable in two, maybe three, hours. But for an unapologetically slow traveler like me, Maria deserves a day by itself. Here’s why.

Larena is the commercial hub of the Siquijor province. Larena is also its transport corridor. Mini-buses that ply the Larena-Lazi route pass by Maria. Fare is US$1.25 until the Salagdoong junction. Then there is the two-kilometer walk to Salagdoong Beach under the canopy of “tugas” trees (remember how scarce public transport is in this province?), unless you hire a “habal-habal” from Larena, in which case the two kilometers will be a breeze.

Maria Bay is spectacular even on a cloudy day. The protrusion on the left of the bay is the Salagdoong Beach.

This church features Santa Rita de Cascia, Patron Saint of the Impossible, abused wives and mourning widows (having previously married herself).

The ornate and gilded “retablo” (literally, “behind the table or altar”) is one of the oldest in the province. Santa Rita is the black and white figure to the right. Images of other bloggers reveal that her face looks eerie, and that she holds an upside-down crucifix in her left hand, and a skull in her right. I wanted to come up close and take a picture, but there was an ongoing “novena” (rosary prayer), which would make crossing over to the altar “blasphemous.” Siquijor legend has it that Santa Rita is a somnambulist (nightwalker) because locals claim her feet would be sullied in the morning.

I would have wanted to walk this two-kilometer stretch all the way to the beach. Locals call this the “katugasan.” That same name is thought to be the original name of Siquijor instead of the Spanish name “Isla del Fuego” (“island of fire”, in reference to the swarms of firefly they saw upon arrival). The hills of Siquijor were once covered in molave trees; if so, this forest is likely primary growth. On the map, this patch of “tugas” trees is marked as Salagdoong Forest. The contrast of the sounds of birdlife and the otherwise deafening silence of midday struck a primeval nerve.

“Salagdoong” refers to these gi-normous birds. No luck finding their scientific name.

Salagdoong Beach is owned and managed by the provincial government.

The swimming pool is just one of the modern amenities on the beach. Guest rooms are also modern and made of concrete.

The slide and the diving platforms are popular with kids and screaming adults.

This is the sandier portion of Salagdoong Beach. The rock overhangs are a favorite playground of children and adults alike. (Overnight) camping by the beach is allowed (US$2.50 per person exclusive of tent).

The waters are unbelievably inviting. A jump from here would land the brave of heart straight into the white sands below. The current, however, can be strong, so caution has to be taken when jumping.

“Ambak” (cliff-jumping) is apparently popular among intrepid kids.

Salagdoong Beach is a jewel even in overcast days. You can get accommodation facing the bay for exhilarating views upon waking up. You can check the price per room at Agoda website here.

Click here for next article (Siquijor series) – Lazi, Siquijor >>

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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The National Integrated Protected Areas System or NIPAS was only enacted in 1992, but it was only last year that an Executive Order was released identifying 78 areas and protecting them from mining and other ecologically upsetting activities. Delayed by two decades it may be, it is not too late.

Vested interests, however, always find a loophole or two to get their way into choice locations to set up shop. And Philippines has plenty of choice locations, which also happen to be sites intended for preservation. So before these areas fall into corporate hands and get treated as commodity, you would be safer to tick these off your bucket list as early as now (because there are still 71 more!).

1) Palawan

Two heritage sites, 54,000 hectares of marine sanctuary, millions of underwater denizens, limitless adventure possibilities.

2) Batanes

Jaw-dropping mountainscapes, wide open seas, uncompromising culture of honesty, “boring” nightlife, zero crime rate.

3) Zambales

Recently active Mt. Pinatubo, achingly beautiful crater lake, tribal Aetas (Filipino aborigines), mother lode of copper, gold and silver.

4) Batangas

Taal Volcano, “island in a lake on an island in a lake on an island in the ocean” fame. To say that it is picturesque is an understatement.

5) Cagayan de Oro

Recently leveled by Typhoon Sendong, CDO is all a-glitter down below. “Oro” is Spanish for gold, in reference to the gold mining operations that the Spanish observed in the “City of the River of Gold.” Whitewater-rafting and river-trekking hotspot of the Philippines.

6) Siargao Islands Group

Bucas Grande Island enchants with Sohoton Lagoon where endemic flora and fauna await the brave of heart who waits for the low tide to stoop (“sohot”) into the lagoon inside. Stingless jellyfish swim by in millions. Ninety thousand (90,000) hectares divided into disposable and preservation areas; 22,000 hectares allotted for the latter. The rest is likely to be “disposed” to vested interests who are hungry for chromite.

7) Ligawasan Marsh

North Cotabato, Maguindanao, Sultan Kudarat. These are the provinces that the marsh encompasses. At 288,000 hectares, this swampy Eden is home to a multitude of ponds, 92 species of birds, 22 species of freshwater fish, six species of reptiles, 5 species of amphibians and 194 species of plants. It is currently on UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, so get there first before the UNESCO designation makes it a crowded destination.

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The easiest way to get lost in a new territory is to plunge ahead without knowing which end is north. But to a (independent) traveler, this is a goldmine of opportunity to interact with the locals. After all, traveling affords meeting people. How else to better meet new ones than to break the ice and ask for directions?

Get “Live Updates” from the Ground

Even with language barriers (another reason why you need to know at least a handful of useful phrases), asking for directions and not relying on your Android map adds a human element to your travels. Maps maybe good, but people on the ground are even better. They know which public transport passes by which street; where to get off; how much to pay; and what time the last bus or boat leaves for the day. Local knowledge of the area is helpful to avoid going around in circles (although that in itself is sometimes a learning opportunity), so tap the most up-to-date information from those who have been there all their lives.

Don’t think that you are a bother; most people, especially in Southeast Asia, would just be too willing and even eager to help, especially if such an opportunity allows them to show off their intimate knowledge of the place. ‘Exploit’ this eagerness to share information while genuinely building a connection. They would feel good at having helped a stranger, and you would get the information you need to ‘connect the dots.’ That’s a win-win!

The Way to Spend Like a Local Is To Ask a Local

Having broken the ice, you also get to dig deeper for bits of insider information that is not as often shared even in review sites. Locals would know where the cheapest accommodations or restaurants could be found, like those that have escaped rave reviews but are as obvious as daylight to anyone who has stayed in the area long enough.

Accommodations, for example, are notoriously tourist-priced for the simple fact that most travelers are willing to pay a little bit more to be spared the run-around of having to call and compare so many establishments. But if you chat up with locals, they are likely to point you to places where traveling salesmen stay, or where locals spend the night when they get stranded in town.

These accommodations, while not up to par with five-twinkling-star hotels that are meant to create impressions to the tourists, are more than enough to provide you with a place to sleep and shower without leaving a gaping hole in your wallet. If you are the non-picky kind of traveler who would want to cover more mileage than your peers with the same travel budget, street-level information gives you a head start.

Of course, not everyone could give you an entire, or even accurate, picture. But if you talk to enough number of people, you are likely to complete the puzzle yourself and figure out which end is up.

Photos by Cherry Vic Patalita

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Risk is inherently built-in in mountaineering, but more so when the mountain in question is as tempestuous as the captivating Mayon. While every precaution is understandably taken by those who allow entry to danger zones and make the trek themselves, fatalities are a fact of life when in the vicinity of magma vents. So tread carefully when you find yourself headed to these geological attractions – arranged from most active to least – ‘permanently monitored’ by the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology.

Mount Mayon

Famed the world over by the perfect symmetry of its cone, Mayon Volcano is like a demure “daragang magayon” (beautiful lady) who surprises everyone with her tempestuous temperament when she does not want to entertain a particular suitor. This otherwise achingly magnificent Bicolandia lass has been active for the last 500 years, so it’s no surprise that she lets off steam every now and then. The last time she did a major scene was in 1814 when she buried the town of Cagsawa in pyroclastic eruption.

Taal Volcano

The Philippines’ island within a lake in an island within a lake in an island (Vulcan Point Island within Crater Lake in Volcano Island within Taal Lake in Luzon island) is no other than the succinctly named Taal. Beguiling in its unbelievable geomorphology, Taal Volcano easily deceives the unsuspecting who come by the truckload to take in its scenery. Its earliest recorded eruption was in 1572 during the time of the Spanish conquest and its most recent (phreatic) eruption was in 1977. However, PHIVOLCS is keeping a close eye on Taal because of its increased seismicity (number of tremors) in 2011. Taal has had a history of warning people when it is about to blow its top, so the chances of getting caught in its “crossfire” can be mitigated.

Mount Kanla-on

Called “kang laon” (of the ancient) by ancient Negrosanon, Mt. Kanla-on towers over central Philippines. It is an exhilarating sight from a ferry or plane approaching the Negros island. Its earliest eruption on record was in 1886 and its most recent was in 2006 when it spewed steam and ash. Like Mayon, Kanla-on can also be tempestuous at times, like its 1996 phreatic eruption which killed three.

Mount Bulusan

The Bicol region in northern Philippines is without doubt tectonically active. Mt. Bulusan, just 70 kilometers southeast of another smoking crater, Mt. Mayon, first erupted in recorded history in 1885 and most of its tantrum-throwing since then is phreatic. In 2011, it again spewed a plume of ash two kilometers high and temporarily put the otherwise laidback province of Sorsogon into ash-induced chaos.

Mount Hibok-Hibok

A Bisaya term meaning “heaving”, Hibok-Hibok is the name of an active stratovolcano and dome complex found on the white-sand-fringed island of Camiguin in northern Mindanao. Its 1871 eruption gave birth to a smaller Mt. Vulcan and sank the town cemetery which can only be identified today with a giant white cross in the middle of the blue sea.

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The Philippine Chapter of Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) recommends the following dive sites as a must for an intrepid underwater explorer:

1) Palawan

It does not take a lot of imagination to think of Palawan as the prime dive destination in the country because its beauty on the surface flaunts the Eden below. To be sure, there are several choice dive spots in Palawan, but you will never go wrong if you venture into the Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park first. Cited as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this underwater constellation of heavenly bodies has also been listed by CNN as one of the world’s top 10 dive sites. Coron not only has achingly beautiful lagoons, it also has an unbelievable diversity that speaks of the preservation efforts of Palawan’s local government and its people. There is a WWII sunken ship in Coron that is easy to explore for beginners. El Nido tantalizes with exotic coral diving, an apt introduction to the ecological state of health of surrounding waters.

2) Puerto Galera

Puerto Galera off the coast of Mindoro (a province adjacent to Palawan) brims with 40 dive sites for divers of all skill levels. The most famous of them all is The Canyons. Snappers, emperors, eagle rays, barracudas, turtles, tuna and occasional sharks are among the denizens of Puerto Galera’s deep.

3) Boracay

Not to be outdone by others on the beach list, Boracay promises underwater adventures in the same way it promises fun in the sand. Angol Point just off the coast of Station 3 is a beginner’s dive spot. For the initiated diver, Yapak waters are more challenging and abound with equally rewarding sightings of white-tip and grey reef sharks, tuna, manta rays and eagle rays. The coral canopy is vibrant and populated with corals of all colors and stripes (quite literally).

4) Apo Island

This island off the coast of Dauin has long been in the diving circuit because of its marine wealth and its people’s conservation efforts. Coral gardens are no less breathtaking, and the opportunity for muck diving arises in the waters of Dumaguete, 30 minutes away by boat. (A recent update states, however, that Apo Island’s coral gardens have been affected – well, actually, decimated – by Typhoon Sendong and are presently under rehabilitation.) Those who have frequented Dumaguete waters also know that there are discoveries that wait in the muck. The ecosystem is entirely different and abounds with baskets of sponges, blazing nudibranchs, and colorful crinoids.

5) Malapascua, Cebu

Cebu is also on the best Philippine beach list, and it is equally flamboyant underwater as it is on the shore. Hammerhead sharks have been spotted to patrol the waters from December to February, but Monad Shoal abounds with creatures of all imaginable kinds year round. Diving is also friendlier, because the less intrepid can just skim the surface at 5 meters and get generously rewarded with astounding sights.

6) Subic Bay

More famously known as the United States’ Naval base in the Pacific until the Philippine Senate voted against it, Subic Bay not only beckons with marine denizens but also with interesting finds. Sharks, dolphins, turtles and barracudas flit in and out of Subic waters along with WW II wrecks.

7) Cauayan-Sipalay-Hinobaan Circuit, Negros Occidental

The adventure starts at Danjugan Island just off the coast of Cauayan, a town that precedes Sipalay in Southern Negros. Danjugan is a marine reserve and a living laboratory for WWF (World Wildlife Fund) marine biologists. Additionally, the island’s relative isolation from the mainland has helped maintain the health of marine life. From here further down south, it only gets better. Coral gardens abound in shallower waters until Nabulao Bay in Hinobaan, the last town of Negros Occidental, where another island known in the map as Pitogo but known by the locals as “pulo” (isle), hosts natural growth mangrove forests and a very expensive tropical resort. This tri-town circuit directly faces Sulu Sea, so gigantic bivalve mollusks, 150-pound yellowfin tunas and bottlenose dolphins are typical sightings.

Technically a snorkeling, instead of diving, destination, Donsol in Sorsogon rewards the marine adventurer with almost year-round sightings of the whale sharks locally known as the “butanding.” Before whale shark overdose sets in, however, divers can explore Manta Bowl and Ticao Island of nearby Masbate, where marine wildlife is said to be unbelievably diverse and colorful.

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