Filipinos are divided as to whether Boracay is hot or not. Some feel that it is already a well-worn path, and lacks the natural rawness that is characteristic of Palawan. That argument has merits, considering that Boracay has this city vibe in an island setting. Some, who are newcomers to the place, still feel that magic when their feet land on Boracay’s white shores for the first time, or see the perfect sunset set the horizon ablaze while they have cocktails in hand.

No matter how divided the opinion on Boracay, it is one place in the Philippines that a traveler should drop anchor if only because of its White Beach. Plus, it’s the summer mecca of the Philippines. No beach pilgrim should miss Boracay, or they are going to go on with their lives with a heavy heart.

Named the number 1 island destination in 2012 by travelandleisure.com, Boracay stands up to scrutiny.

This is not, however, the first time that the island has received such a distinction. In 1990, the BMW Tropical Beach Handbook published by the Fourth Estate of London, selected Boracay as the best in the world after over 200 beaches were visited by three researchers for the project. Their definition of best was something like this: Boracay has everything that a beach lover could possibly ask for.

Boracay, a dog-bone shaped island off the northwestern tip of Aklan in Western Visayas, was the aboriginal domain of the Aetas until tourism and development came in stages in the 1980s and slowly shouldered them into near assimilation. Back then, the island’s most frequent visitors were people from the neighboring mainland of Panay. Getting from the mainland to the island entailed waiving an entire branch of palm frond so the boatman can spot the passenger. Beachfront cottages were mostly “nipa huts” (airy cottages made of coconut shingles and bamboo), and electricity was a privilege.

Today, Boracay is a full-blown, highly mature beach destination that can stand toe to toe with the best of the world.

In fact, if cruise ship stewards of Caribbean vessels were to be believed, Boracay’s sands are finer, whiter and more fitting for a tropical paradise than those of the famed Antilles islands. (Why do we hear Boracay sand ‘stealers’ if that were not true?)

Boracay’s crown jewel, and one that in itself is a natural marvel, is its 4-kilometer stretch of white sand beach aptly named White Beach. Most of the action happens here, especially during the months of November through May when the monsoon blows from the island’s eastern backside. With White Beach protected from the vagaries of northeasterly winds (“amihan”), the beach is blindingly white, the turquoise waters are sparkling clear, and the skies are achingly tropical blue. These natural qualities make Boracay an apt postcard for what a summer mecca should be. (Of course, Palawan is another Eden on earth, but that would be another story.)

White Beach is divided into three sections: Stations 1, 2 and 3. The northern portion of the beach is Station 1, the midsection is Station 2, and the south tail is Station 3. Of the three, Station 2 is the busiest because it is where a concentration of accommodation, good eats, retail therapy and thumping nightlife are found.

Station 1 is the retreat of choice of discriminating travelers. The finest sand is here, and so are plush hotels. The atmosphere here smells with vacationing in luxury. The atmosphere is laidback, even when the beach starts to fill up as the sun goes down.

Station 3 can easily be described as a backpacker’s haven. Beachfront budget accommodations abound. Even in regular season, a backpacker on the hunt for ocean view room is likely to find one in Station 3. Those seeking solace are also likely to find peace and quiet on this end of White Beach without being that far from action.

Bulabog, on Boracay’s eastern backside, is more for the adrenaline-seeking kitesurfers and wakeboarders when “amihan” is at its fiercest. The white sand here is coarser, and the pelagic zone is carpeted with seaweeds that would have made sea cows at home. Bulabog waters are protected by an offshore coral reef, about 500 meters away from the tide line.

Boracay’s reggae vibe can be felt in pockets in Station 2, but it is palpable here on Bulabog’s south end. There is plenty of room for “development” on this side of the island, but it can get downright surreal at dusk when the prevailing winds switch and pummel White Beach instead.

Yapak, a baranggay (smallest political unit in the Philippines) on Boracay’s northern tip, was intentionally left in its natural state – at least some of it – as a reminder of how the island once was before the glittering promise and rewards of tourism came in and nearly wiped out the Aetas. (They are still here, trying to assimilate in a tourist-driven economy.)

Puka Beach in Yapak is worthy of mentioning because the entire beach is heaped with puka shells. Coconut trees growing in untamed directions line the beach and provide the requisite backdrop for a tropical postcard. The waves here though are rougher, and swimming could be dangerous when the ‘habagat’ (opposite of ‘amihan’) starts blowing. This is more of a divers’ site – there are plenty around Boracay – when the winds are calmer and the waters are clearer.

Summer in Boracay is a magical experience, both for the partygoer and the solo backpacker. It is one place in the country to rekindle romance, or to bring the family to have fun. It is a perfect place to unwind, or to chase away your sorrows with a smorgasbord of delights. Whatever your desires, Boracay is bound to satisfy it, and then some.

The pollsters were right: Boracay is the best island destination in the world. It has everything that a beach lover could possibly ask for.

Photos by -Gep- and hongchou

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